It actually cheaper to buy a couple of expanding bolts and drill them into the concrete with a chain on each, then hammer the bolt heads so they can be unscrewed and lock the chain ends together. A real bastard also glues the thread prefills the hole with concrete-compatible glue, and uses expensive hardend chain. While there some value in a cover like the ones advertised, the gap between "I can defeat a chain" and "I can defeat the bolt head but not the cap or chain" is very narrow. I have the welder, but I just use bolts, it not worth fabricating something more complex Мסž Jul 6 '11 at 2:23

The replacement business for bike-light-brackets is part driven by people that get their bikes stolen to have the lights left behind. A large chunk of these bikes come from bikes stolen from garden sheds and garages. The jaundiced view of sheds and garages is that they act as convenient collection places for thieves. There is also the problem of people finding that the hacksaw on the workbench in the garage has been used to liberate the bicycle(s).

Insurance is also part of the picture. A bike in the garage is sometimes covered with household contents insurance. However, insurance companies tend to take a dim view if doors, windows and garage doors are left open - basically they don't pay up.

Whether or not you have insurance is neither here or there - you want your bike, not a cheque to buy a new one with. As such the brackets are variously approved by insurance ratings agencies. The German 'Abus' brand make a song and dance about this for their products.

My recommendation is that you get a wall bracket rather than a floor bracket and that you position it at the height you need to get a 300mm D-lock through it, your back wheel and down-tube. In effect you secure your bike as well as you would if it were on the street, locked up to railings. For your other bikes you can chain together more D-Locks (if you are paranoid) or get one big long loop of hardened cable and hook that through the D-Lock and everything else.

Here is the Abus Granit, widely available from bicycle shops and motorbike shops:

Following the standard lock advice makes sense: Spend money on a good, secure lock; feed the lock through the wheels; et cetera. This is less convenient and messier than a rack, but this can work. One has to make sure that whatever they lock to is securely attached to the garage, or, at the least, extremely heavy and clumsy to move.

In this case, there's nothing to lock to. I assume that means this means there's certainly nothing obvious, like shelving or furniture. Have you taken a look for unused pipes or sturdy shelf bracket? Are there any fittings on the walls that could be used for this?

Do you have anything you store in the garage that's very large and heavy, like a dresser or a headboardor a tool bench? I've seen people lock bikes to cinder blocks. and nothing else; you want something that would be prohibitively difficult to move.

Ask yourself what else you store in the garage. Unused boiler? A potbellied stove you haven't gotten around to installing? A broken car? All of these space-wasters are hard to walk away with, and can make for great impromptu bike anchors.

It's worth mentioning some general advice here: I've seen bikes locked to other bikes and nothing else. I've even seen bikes locked so that the wheels can't turn, but one could pick up the bike and carry it away. A determined bike thief can even pick up a bunch of bikes locked to each other and toss them all in a van.

Also, additional security can be had by simply hiding the bike so it's not as visible, perhaps behind a bench or a car or a shelf. Keep that in mind when you pick a lockup location in the garage.

Depends on where you live, of course. Around here you could leave the bike in the garage with the door open for months, with only a small chance of it being stolen.

But, assuming you won't be changing your wife's behavior, and you need to be reasonably secure, the simplest thing to do is to screw a large eye bolt (or two) into the framing in the garage. (Drill a pilot hole first.) Use that and a heavy padlock-able cable or chain to secure the bike. The eye bolt can't be unscrewed while the bike's locked to it (at least not without picking the bike up and twisting it around repeatedly, which small possibility can be prevented by using two eye bolts rather than one). The eye bolt can be removed by prying it out of the wall or sawing away the stud where it's secured, but that takes time and tools the thief likely isn't carrying. Do you think that would get her to close it up after she left?

The real issue here is the garage left open. Worst case, the thief goes inside, closes the door to be discrete, and uses your own tools to break into the house.

Failing that, I'd consider hardware store concrete anchors into the slab to secure the bike. I'd be the one avoiding anything from the bike catalog myself because I have my own welder and abrasive cutoff grinder